Alpine Diary - Technical climbs, infamous ridges, and mythical peaks ...

Fri 11 Sep. - Packing for the Himalaya :)

Fri 4 Sep. - La Meije, highest point is the Grand Pic de la Meije at 3,984 metres, is notorious in that there is no "easy" path to the top. Hence, it was the last major peak in the Alps to be summited - first ascent was made in 1877. Geoffroy and Jeff made this week the traverse of the ridge, from west to east, which passes by the top of the Doigt de Dieu, a large snow-clad tower at the east end of the ridge, overhanging the south slopes -an attraction! We also went rock-climbing in the faboulous surrounding ranges: amazing rock, amazing routes :)

Fri 28 Aug. - On our way to the Mont Blanc traverse, Geoffroy, Jeff and Nicolas visited the refuge des Conscrits, a good example of "sustainable mountaineering" in the Alps. The refuge des concrits is an ecological refuge that draw its energy solar panels and a modern boiler. Its circular form ensure minimisation of energy dissipation while maximum place inside. Dry toilet system minimise the impact of solid waists ... Modern refuges in the Alps are built with the same objective to reduce impact of climbers on the ecosystem. Thanks to the UIAA and Alpine Clubs that are promoting and acting for sustainable mountaineering.

Fri 21 Aug. - As if summitting the Cervin/Matterhorn (4478m) was not enough ... After traversing it from Cresta di Leone (Lion ridge) to Hörnli rigde, Jeff and Kieran shoot of to climb yet anoth

er 4000m: the sharply-ridge Dent Blanche (4356m). Two of the most mysthical 4000m peaks is 24h + long and exhausting approach walks ... A good effort :)

Fri 14 Aug. - Summitting the Aig

uille des Pellerins at sunset is an amazing experiences ... but means compulsory bivouac in the hanging to the wall 100m below the summit. Yes, an amazing experience! Off-course, and as it should be, we had left all clothing and food supplies at the bottom. We were then blessed to spend a cold night in Haute Montagne on the night of the shooting stars ... Montaineering as it should be !

Fri 06 Aug. - As climbing continues in the Alps, our team for himalayan expeditions is taking shape: Geoffroy Graff and Alexis Montader are joining "Beyond Peaks." Welcome onboard! Expedition objectives and plans are being elaborated ... Jeff and Geoffroy are currently in Chamonix for a series of technical climbs: Aiguilles des Pelerins, Aiguilles du Diables; and infamous ridges: Arêtes de Rochefort and Arêtes des Grandes Jorasses. And Kieran is summitting some of Berner Oberland most mythical peaks: Eiger and Schreckhorn ...

Fri 31 Jul. - Climbing in the Alps is amazing: All rock, snow and ice along sharp, aerial ridges ... This week we had the luxury to climb around Zermatt - so we took most of it: 5 x 4000+ peaks in 6 days … that 11650 positive altitude meters !!! not bad for a rehab :)

* Obergabelhorn (4063) via Wellenkuppe - soooo cold, no-one else summitted :/

* Zinal Rothorn (4221m) via Rothorngrad – top rock at 4000+ :)
* Alphubel (4206m) via Rotgrat + Täschhorn (4490m) – little ambitious …
* Täschhorn (4490m) >> Mischabel Dom (4545m) traverse – scaringly sharp !!!
Now it is party-time to celebrate the Swiss Confederation :)

Sun 26 Jul. -- Where else in the world can you leave your chalet early in the morning, complete a high alpine mixed route, on fine granite, surrounded by sparkling glaciers, and return in the evening, if not to a refuge, to town for a well deserved gourmet meal, sipping a wine as the alpenglow settles over the Aiguilles above? It's incomparable. Clearly, no mountain range in the world compares with the spectacular summits, fantastic climbing and ease of access of the Alps.

Come and join us climb the Alps!!!

From Jul. 15 to Sep. 15 2009 we will climb the Alps, not only chasing summits but also acting for sustainable mountaineering.

Favourites:

* www.skyandsummit.com

Climbs Log & Plan in the Alpes (summer season 2009)

No mountain range in the world compares with the spectacular summits, fantastic climbing and ease of access of the Alps.

There is an inexhaustible supply of incredible routes in the Alps, literally with thousands of great climbs. A person could spend a lifetime wandering from valley to valley, picking off the gems. We can only scratch the surface of all possible climbs, so we have focused on routes in the some of the most grandiose sites: Chamonix - Mont Blanc; Zermatt - Saas; Berner Oberland; and Grisons.

Logbook:

* 10.09.09 - Tour Terminée (3300m) voie du Ponant Neuf (TD, 6a, 280m

* 09.09.09 - La Meije (3982m) traverse West >> EAst (D-, +2300m)

* 23.08.09 - Weissehorn (4505m) via the East ridge (AD, +3100m)

* 20.08.09 - Dent Blanche (4356m) via the South ridge (AD IV 4b, +2250m)
* 19.08.09 - Cervin / Matterhorn (4478m) traverse (AD III 4c, +2000m) via the Cresta di Leone >> the Hörnli ridge
* 14-16.08.09 - Mont-Blanc (4810m) traverse (AD/III/3c, +4600m) via the Dômes de Miage (3633m, 3670m, 3673m) >> Aiguille de Bionnassay (4052m) >>Dôme du Goûter (4303) >> Mont-Blanc (4810m) >> Mont-Maudit (4465m) >>Mont-Blanc du Tacul (4248m) >> Aiguille du Midi (3842m)
* 12-13.08.09 - Aiguille des Pelerins (3318m) via the Grüter ridge (D IV+, 5b, +900m) -- Unplanned bivvy + success !
* 10.08.09 - Weisshorn (4506m) traverse via the Schaligrat >> East ridge (D IV 4b, +3000m; Kieran only)
* 06.08.09 - Eiger (3970m) via the Mittellegigrat (D III 5b; Kieran only)
* 06.08.09 - Grandes Jorasses (4208m) traverse (D IV, 5a) via Pointe Joung (3996m) >> Pointe Walker (4208m) -- Aborted
* 05.08.09 - Traversée des Arêtes de Rochefort (AD+ III, +900m) via l'Aiguille de Rochefort (4001m) >> Dôme de Rochefort (4015m)
* 04.08.09 - Schreckhorn (4078m) via the SW ridge (AD+ III 4a; Kieran only)
* 04.08.09 - Aiguille des Pelerins (3318m) via the Grüter ridge (D IV+, 5b, +900m) --Aborted
* 30.07.09 - Täschhorn (4490m) >> Mischabel Dom (4545m) traverse from Mischabel bivouac (3851m) to Randa (1409m) (D III+, +900m, -3400m)
* 29.07.09 - Alphubel (4206m) traverse from Rotgrat (AD, III) via Mischabeljoch (3851m) to Täschhorn (4490m) (Alphubel summitted, Täschhorn aborted half-way and return to Mischabel bivouac)
* 26.07.09 - Zinal Rothorn (4221m) via the Rothorngrad (AD+ IV+, 1100m)
* 25.07.09 - Obergabelhorn (4063) via the Wellenkuppe (3903m, AD- III, 2450m)

References:

* 4000 des Alpes, Richard Goedeke

* Guide du Valais du Trient au Nufenen, Hermann Biner, Club Alpin Suisse

Note 1: Peak and route informations correspond to: summit (altitude) route (grades, length of climbs)

Note 2: Overall grades are given in International French Adjective System (F: facile; PD: peu difficile; AD: assez difficile; D: difficile; TD: tres difficile; ED: extermement difficile). This overall rating attempts to summarise the overall difficulty of a climb, incl. length, commitment, objective hazard, technical climbing, descent, and altitude

Our schedule in the Alps ...