Monday 27 July 2009

Climbs Log & Plan in the Alpes (summer season 2009)

No mountain range in the world compares with the spectacular summits, fantastic climbing and ease of access of the Alps.

There is an inexhaustible supply of incredible routes in the Alps, literally with thousands of great climbs. A person could spend a lifetime wandering from valley to valley, picking off the gems. We can only scratch the surface of all possible climbs, so we have focused on routes in the some of the most grandiose sites: Chamonix - Mont Blanc; Zermatt - Saas; Berner Oberland; and Grisons.

Logbook:

* 10.09.09 - Tour Terminée (3300m) voie du Ponant Neuf (TD, 6a, 280m

* 09.09.09 - La Meije (3982m) traverse West >> EAst (D-, +2300m)
* 23.08.09 - Weissehorn (4505m) via the East ridge (AD, +3100m)

* 20.08.09 - Dent Blanche (4356m) via the South ridge (AD IV 4b, +2250m)
* 19.08.09 -
Cervin / Matterhorn (4478m) traverse (AD III 4c, +2000m) via the Cresta di Leone >> the Hörnli ridge
* 14-16.08.09 -
Mont-Blanc (4810m) traverse (AD/III/3c, +4600m) via the Dômes de Miage (3633m, 3670m, 3673m) >> Aiguille de Bionnassay (4052m) >>Dôme du Goûter (4303) >> Mont-Blanc (4810m) >> Mont-Maudit (4465m) >>Mont-Blanc du Tacul (4248m) >> Aiguille du Midi (3842m)
* 12-13.08.09 -
Aiguille des Pelerins (3318m) via the Grüter ridge (D IV+, 5b, +900m) -- Unplanned bivvy + success !
* 10.08.09 -
Weisshorn (4506m) traverse via the Schaligrat >> East ridge (D IV 4b, +3000m; Kieran only)
* 06.08.09 -
Eiger (3970m) via the Mittellegigrat (D III 5b; Kieran only)
* 06.08.09 -
Grandes Jorasses (4208m) traverse (D IV, 5a) via Pointe Joung (3996m) >> Pointe Walker (4208m) -- Aborted
* 05.08.09 - Traversée des Arêtes de Rochefort (AD+ III, +900m) via l'
Aiguille de Rochefort (4001m) >> Dôme de Rochefort (4015m)
* 04.08.09 -
Schreckhorn (4078m) via the SW ridge (AD+ III 4a; Kieran only)
* 04.08.09 -
Aiguille des Pelerins (3318m) via the Grüter ridge (D IV+, 5b, +900m) --Aborted
* 30.07.09 -
Täschhorn (4490m) >> Mischabel Dom (4545m) traverse from Mischabel bivouac (3851m) to Randa (1409m) (D III+, +900m, -3400m)
* 29.07.09 -
Alphubel (4206m) traverse from Rotgrat (AD, III) via Mischabeljoch (3851m) to Täschhorn (4490m) (Alphubel summitted, Täschhorn aborted half-way and return to Mischabel bivouac)
* 26.07.09 -
Zinal Rothorn (4221m) via the Rothorngrad (AD+ IV+, 1100m)
* 25.07.09 -
Obergabelhorn (4063) via the Wellenkuppe (3903m, AD- III, 2450m)

References:

* 4000 des Alpes, Richard Goedeke

* Guide du Valais du Trient au Nufenen, Hermann Biner, Club Alpin Suisse

Note 1: Peak and route informations correspond to: summit (altitude) route (grades, length of climbs)

Note 2: Overall grades are given in International French Adjective System (F: facile; PD: peu difficile; AD: assez difficile; D: difficile; TD: tres difficile; ED: extermement difficile). This overall rating attempts to summarise the overall difficulty of a climb, incl. length, commitment, objective hazard, technical climbing, descent, and altitude

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